La Rochelle

As the only deep water harbour on the Atlantic coast La Rochelle has long been attractive to the English and French who fought over it. It’s also easy on the eye thanks to the brilliant white of the local limestone, so bring your sunglasses.

Interactive Map

Printable PDF

You can download and print a copy of the strolls here

A wander around town (3.2k blue)

Leave the station and walk straight ahead down Avenue du Général de Gaulle.

If you want an overview of La Rochelle, you could hop into a capsule of La Grande Roue - La Rochelle’s Ferris wheel.

If you would rather have your views to be lower and older, and stationary, you may prefer the St Nicolas Tower, one of three protecting the old harbour.

To get there, we can walk along Quai du Gabut which separates the marina (Bassin à Flot) from the seafood joints and shops of the regenerated Gabut quarter - next time I go there, I’ll check out the Moule Shop. The far end of the quarter is in its original state and has been become something of a streetart project.

St Nicolas Tower, along with its neighbour on the other side of the water, gives the harbour a reassuringly solid feel, despite it being on a slight wonk. The origins of the tower remain a mystery with some saying it was build by the fairy Mélusine who dropped a load of stones as she flying past. That might help explain why the building is on a slight lean.

The tower across the water is the Tour de la Chaine (chain tower) and between the two a chain could be hauled up to protect the harbour.

Let’s carry on around the harbour to the other tower which we can do by walking along the quai de Carenage which runs between the harbour and the Bassin à Flot. If we had been waking here in 1863, we might have seen a shadowy figure beneath the water with a stream of bubbles coming out of its rear. That would have been the plongeur - an early submarine experimenting with compressed air to power it.

At the far corner we pass the Grosse Horloge, which we’ll pass through on the way back.

don’t rush by the statue of Admiral Victor Guy Duperré - at a time when Britain ruled the waves, he manged to buck the trend and defeat the British. His talents as a commander were put to good use by Charles X in the Invasion of Algiers leading to 130 years of French colonial rule, something he advised against - perhaps Charles X should have also put his judgement to good use as well.

The Tour de la Chaine as the name suggests was used to manage a chain across the harbour to protect it from enemies, but it was also used to store gunpowder. During an uprising in the 1600s, someone putting a match to it and it was it was transformed into an open-top tower, but has now been restored.

Go up the steps by the tower and on to the wall that leads to the third tower, the Tour de la Lanterne - so named after the light that guided ships. It also served as a prison for priests.

If you fancy a paddle, you could walk down to the beach (marked in red on the map) otherwise let’s head back down Rue des Fagots and then turn right on to the café-lined Rue St Jean du Pérot which takes us back to the harbour-front.

If you have seen enough sights and you want to get a bit nautical, there is a ferry (Bus de Mer) running from the quay to the other side of the water (marked in black on the map) every few minutes.

On the way back, let’s go through the arch of the Grosse Horloge (say something about the history).

If you have plenty of time and a spring in your step, you could take a look further in to town (marked in green).

Let’s turn right on to Rue du Temple. The Knights Templar and the Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem put La Rochelle on the map for pilgrims wanting to make for the Holy Land and it soon became the largest port on the Atlantic.

This is now home to an alternative holy grail - shopping

Turn right on to Rue Saint-Sauveur which leads to the church of Saint-Sauveur with its mish-mash façade. Bits of gothic arches give a glimpse of what

cross over the road (and canal) and back along Quai Valin with it limestone lighthouse, past La Grande Roue (ferris wheel) and to the station marked out by its grand tower.

Beach stroll (1.5k red)

From the Tour de la Lanterne

a long way back via the New World (1.2k green) Passing through the Grosse Horloge, continue straight on down Rue du Palais until you get to the Saint-Louis Cathedral which is worth a nosey for its ornate ceiling frescos.

La Rochelle’s prosperity came frm its role as a principal port for exploring, colonising and trading with the New World and we can find out more about that by continuing along Rue Fleuriau which houses the New World Museum (Musée du Nouveau Monde).

At the end of the street, turn left (Rue Saint-Yon) which leads to Les Halles - the covered market with stalls and a couple of cafes to keep any tummy satisfied.

returning back to the station via Rue des Dames may not be the most scenic route, but it contains the Bunker Museum where you can learn more about La Rochelle’s time under Nazi occupation.

Turning right on to Rue Amelot takes us on to the arcaded street of Rue des Merciers. Turn left and wander down until it runs out of steam where it meets Rue de la Ferté. Turn left and follow round . On the left is the Protestant church and attached museum. On the right at the end is the Church of Saint-Sauveur.

Cross over the road (and canal) and back along Quai Valin with it limestone lighthouse, past La Grande Roue and to the station marked out by its grand tower.