Bordeaux Saint-Jean

For hundreds of years, the wine trade brought Bordeaux wealth in abundance which is tastefully on display in the city’s collection of buildings, particularly along a moon-shaped bend in the river known as Port de la Lune. Indeed, Bordeaux has more protected buildings than any other French city apart from Paris, which the canny Bordelais have cleverly accentuated with more modern features like the water mirror.

Saint-Jean station is around 2 km from the heart of the old town. There is a tram stop outside the station which will glide you there, so this may be a good option if you don’t have the time or inclination for a longer stroll. If you have wine on your mind, you could also take the tram to La Cite du Vin. Les Bassins des Lumières is just a short walk from there.

Interactive Map

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You can download and print a copy of the strolls here

A wander around town (5k blue)

Leave the station and follow the road to the right (Rue Saint-Vincent-de-Paul) which leads on to Cours de la Marne. After around 500 metres, you come to a stripy red building on the left which was the Zoological Institute and is now a hotel (1) which has a rooftop terrace and a bar open to the public, so this might be a nice place to while away some time waiting for a train. Opposite the old Zoological Institute is a small park, Place Andre Meunier, which used to be the site of municipal abattoirs. Not sure if these two things are related… A little further on on the left is the entrance to the Jewish cemetery (2) which has tombs dating back to the 18th Century The Jewish community originally came from Portugal and the Comtat Venison (Carpentras).

The Cours de la Marne eventually opens out on the Place de la Victoire containing the twizzled Colonne de la Vigne et du Vin (4), a nod to where the city’s great wealth came from - and some vine-munching tortoises, well why not?

So what do the Bordelais do with all the money they earn from wine? We can find out by going through the grand Porte d’Aquitaine and heading down the renowned shopping street, Rue Sainte Catherine.

If you have plenty of time or perhaps you’re not sure, then you could go and see a fancy clock tower, when you reach Cours Victor Hugo, turn right and you will see the clock tower or Grosse Cloche (5) on your left after around 150 metres looking rather squashed in by the surrounding buildings including the church of Saint-Eloi. If you happen to be here around noon on the first Sunday of the month, you’ll get to hear the bell. There’s a plaque on the wall

“J’appelle aux armes, J’annonce les jours, Je donne les heures, Je chasse l’orage, Je sonne les fêtes, Je crie à l’incendie.”

I call to arms, I announce the days, I give the hours, I chase the storm, I ring the parties, I scream fire.

You can continue through the portway and follow the Rue Saint-James all the way up to Place Fernand Lafargue and then continue up to Cours d’Alsace-et-Lorraine with its tram tracks. At this point, you could follow the orange route (see below) to see the Cathedral, Hotel de Ville and climb a tower to get a good city view.

Now let’s go and see one of the big features that has had a contemporary twist. Continue straight over Cours d’Alsace-et-Lorraine and continue along Rue du Pas-Saint-Georges through Place Camile Jullian and Place du Parlement to reach the impressively spacious Place de la Bourse (6).

For a unique view, we need to cross the tram tracks. and head for the river. However, watch where you’re walking or you’ll spoil your shoes and someone’s perfect instagram shot. The shallow water is a giant mirror! (7)

At the river bank, turn right and follow the course of the river to fully take in the UNESCO-listed world heritage view.

Go through Porte Cailhau (8) on the right - it was probably designed to be imposing - it’s just the surrounding buildings that make it seem cute.

Turn left down Rue Ausone which leads to a statue/bust of the 4th Century Romana and is in front of the Frog and Rosbif pub. Turn right onto Rue de la Porte Saint-Jean and then left on the Rue de la Rouselle which will take you past Porte de Bourgogne on your left (9). Continue along Rue des Ponets and at the end of that road, turn right on to Rue Maubec which leads to Place Maynard containing Saint-Michael basilica (10). Cross over the square and turn right down Rue des Allamandiers and then left onto Rue Camille Sauvageau. At the end of this street is Place Renaudel containing the pleasingly asymmetric church of Saint Croix church (11), which was the parish church of the village which has been consumed by Bordeaux. Behind it is the Bordeaux Conservatoire for fine arts.

Continue on to Rue de Tauzia which will take you all the way back to the station.

Hotel de Ville and Cathedral extension (1.5km orange)

From the blue route (see above), turn left and go down Cours d’Alsace-et-Lorraine to the Cathedral and past the Pey Berland tower, which you can climb for some great views (12).

A little further down the road is the Fort du Hâ, a 14th Century remnant of the town’s fortifications, which was turned into a jail and is now the National School for Judges. (13) Go back towards the cathedral and in between the Cathedral and the Hotel de Ville (14).

Follow the cathedral round and past the statue of the bloke in a long coat is wartime resistance bigwig, local mayor and prime minister, Jacques ‘Chaban’ Delmas. Turn left down Rue du Père Louis Jabrun and then right on to Rue des Trois-Conils, which will give you a chance to empty your pockets some more before reaching Place Camile Jullian. Turn left onto Rue du Pas-Saint-Georges and join back up with the blue route.

Tummy topup (3.3km red)

If you are short of time, this route will allow you to catch a glimpse of Bordeaux and sample the food and drink that makes the place tick. Follow the same path as the blue route (see above) and upon reaching the Place des Capucins which contains the Marche des Capucins - a down-to-earth place selling both simple and fine local produce -why not sample some oysters or maybe pick up some Puits d’Amour. (3)

Tummy filled, let’s exit onto Rue Élie Gintrac Continue through the market and head for the tall spire down Rue Clare and then Rue Gaspard Philippe. The spire belongs to Saint-Michel Basilica and there’s a market here every Monday and Saturday morning. Mummified bodies used to be displayed in the crypt but were moved elsewhere in 1979 (10).

Around the back of the church, Rue des Allamandiers leads to the Saint-Michel sports fields which have the UNESCO listed riverfront as a backdrop (12).

Walk back through the archway of the Porte de la Monnaie onto Rue Carpenteyre and then turn left down Rue Camille Sauvageau which leads to Eglise Saint-Croix. Behind it is the Bordeaux Conservatoire for fine arts (11). Continue on to Rue de Tauzia which will take you all the way back to the station.